Well, we did it! Finished on schedule and without too much trouble in the end. Our eagerness to reach the end was growing and when we woke this morning, after once again having a couple of beers to many, we were ready to put this to bed.
Heading North, the final stretch, as people keep repeating, is the most arduous. We had been quietly confident however that it wouldn't pose us too many problems (we can say this now we have done it!) as it is coming at the end of the walk when, all being well, we should be at our fittest.
After checking out from Mrs. Breeze's B&B in Newport and meeting up with Ben, Dan's brother who was to join us for the last day's walking, we made our way to Newport Beach and joined the path proper again.
Ben, as has been alluded to into previous posts, is fit. He goes to the gym and eats well. He understands the phrase "moderation". We on the other hand don't, at least not to his high standards.
We warned Ben not to rush ahead or beat us to the finish line. We've enjoyed his company, but there was no way, having come this far, he was going to be allowed to waltz in here all nimble footed and slender calved, making a show of us.
As it turned out, he was patient with us. The path was hard and some of the more remote we have walked. In places it rises and falls quite regularly and along this stretch you also come to the highest point on the path - about 175m. Facing some of those hills, which rise to this height from sea level and take about 15 minutes to climb (water breaks included here!) was daunting, but a great sense of achievement all around once the summit had been reached. This sense of achievement was heightened with a quick glance at Ben, sweating slightly and breathing heavily!
We passed through some beautiful landscape, including up and around the Witches' Cauldron, and also some of the most treacherous, without wanting to sound dramatic. As the path rises higher and higher, the cliff edges are more threatening; nature hiding these deadly drops under a blankets of green, lush bracken. We weren't to be fooled however, and had long ago developed an unwritten code of conduct for the lead walker (most of the Coast Path does need to be walked in single file), which includes the task of warning about the thousands of snails, slugs and bumble bees littering the path (this may sound wet, but it would have been carnage otherwise) and also warning of emerging sheer edges. A system that worked also as a form of pace setting. "To the back please Ben!".
As this stretch is more remote, there are warning signs explaining that there are no escape points along the vast majority of the route, and that there are no places to eat, drink or use the loo. There was however one familiar face that we saw-James' dad Nigel, who passed by in his fishing boat and shouted words of encouragement (at least we think that is what they were!)
Being hardened walkers of course, this tough landscape was not a problem (arrogance creeping in), but the closer we came to the finish line, the more the feet hurt and muscles ached. This has to be a purely psychological condition; dreaming of beer and warm beds does nothing for the next 1/2 mile that needs negotiating.
As we arrived at Poppit Sands, we were met by Jody and Shelia (Dan's sister and mum respectively), and Cindy the dog, that latter two both regulars on the walk of course.
We walked to Poppit where there was some debate over where the path officially ends, and so another couple of miles to St. Dogmaels and the reassuringly inconspicuous sign, confirming the finish and the milage travelled.
We had not expected much from the finish line, no parties or bunting and with swollen feet and sun burnt faces, we drank some well deserved medicinal pints at a local pub.
So, as we come to the end of the last post, it is worth reflecting that despite the time away and the aches and pains, along every bit of the route, the views, scenery and people you meet force you to keep your head up and to appreciate the experience, no matter how trying it can occasionally be.
And of course having made our small contribution with your help to the Lifeboats and Ty-Hafan, having met so many lovely and generous people along the way and spent time with old friends and family, it really is true that it is the journey that matters, not the destination.
Tight Calves!
James & Dan
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