Thursday, July 29, 2010

Day 12: The Beach

Day 12: Porthgain to Pwll Deri

We heard a better word to describe the paths since Newgale beach today - "undulating". A gentle sounding term, it describes well, with the additional prefix "increasingly", the shift to more rocky, steep terrain that rises and falls more regularly and with more of the rise and more of the fall!

One of the benefits of this though has been that once we have ascended some of the larger hills, the views have been breathtaking and in this department, today was the best yet.

We stayed in Porthgain with Dan's mum last night after a good night at The Sloop with some of James' and Dan's family and friends (a special thank you to 'Kavi the collector' too, who went round the pub rattling a tin and managed to collect an additional £62.50 for the cause!) A good night but one that we suffered for the next day. We blame Paul Walsh (an old friend and a very generous sponsor for this walk) and Morgan the Moon (see Max Boyce), with whom we sat talking and listening to music until the early hours, finally rolling in at about 1.30am. Not ideal preparation for the 13 miles walking required the next day!

It was a busier morning work wise too and once we had both done a few bits and pieces, including Dan frantically applying Vaseline to his chaffing thighs, we met James' mum Nicola, her friend Catherine and Catherine's son Charlie, plus James' parents dog Archie, a handsome Labradoodle.






The pace is always more enjoyable when we have people other than each other to talk to. And a hangover does nothing for speed either.

It was a lovely morning's walk and the weather was overcast but not too heavy. It was fresh enough to keep cool and with regular stops to top up on energy foods and to give Archie the chance to drink some water. His thick black coat means he heats up nicely so needs to cool down when possible.



Charlie found some huge mushrooms growing along the path hedges, and also had about 15 failed attempts at smoothing a Sheep. We kept our eyes peeled for signs of seals but only spotted one very briefly which was a shame.



As always, it was great to have some company along the way and to catch up on some news. Nicola, Catherine, Charlie and Archie left us at Abercastle where they had parked the car, and we headed off to try and shake off the hangovers with a 7 mile walk!

We passed through some familiar and beautiful beaches such as Abermawr and Aberbach, however the pick of them was Pwll Crochan, which isn't accessible by road and is always very quiet, probably in no small part due to the fact that the only way down to the beach is via a piece of rope. James had come here about 10 years ago but had not been able to find anyone in the intervening years, except for his Uncle Tim, who had any recollection of it.

So it was great to "find" it and although it was high tide, Pwll Crochan will definitely be somewhere we head back to.

Later, Dan's mum Shelia and her friend Caro, met us somewhere between Pwll Crochan and Pwll Deri, and from the top of some of the hills, it was clear enough to see for miles and miles, with the patchwork farmland on one side and the sea on the other. Scrambling up some of these hills was hard work given the previous night's endeavours, but the" views made it worth it.

We reached our destination for today at around 16.30 and headed home after a quick drink in the Farmers Arms in Mathry, who had also been kind enough to support our cause with some quiz nights and a collection box.

We then ate a great meal prepared by Shelia with a tasty salad from Caro and went to bed. Tomorrow we will walk from Pwll Deri to Fishguard, where we have a few people we want to see to say thank you.

Tight Calves!

James and Dan




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Day 11: A few home comforts


It's not cheating if you're honest....and no, we haven't taken any shortcuts on route if that's the admission you were waiting for! No, the admission is that while had planned to camp more often on the way around, we have in fact stayed in some (more an we anticipated that is) lovely B&Bs and last night we stayed at Dan's house in Porthgain.

The weather was quite muggy this morning and after having done some office work and having being served breakfast courtesy of Dan's mum Shelia, we drove down to Whitesands, kindly driven by Shelia's friend Lorna.

Palika, Lorna's daughter, joined us for the walk and although there were a few trying hills, the views from the top were fantastic. As with Ben yesterday, we were determined that, at the least, we kept up with our younger walking companions.

This we managed again today and while we hope that we are not over-egging things too much (thanks Cheryl Hughes, James's aunty, for pointing out that we have become a little cocky!!), the fact that we have no choice but to walk each day means there is no chance of us not at least maintaining our current levels of fitness. Until the end of the walk that is.

After eating our packed lunches that Dan had prepared this morning overlooking 'seal bay' (which incidentally was completely seal free today), we met Lorna who had parked at Abberaddi, later also meeting with Sheila, Cindie (Shelia's Golden Retriever) and Palika's younger brother Kavi who has walked with us previously.






We passed the blue lagoon and had a brief swim in the icy sea at Traethllyfn and then headed with Shelia to The Sloop for a quick drink, before heading back for a shower and some food.

Tonight some of James' family and friends will join us at The Sloop for drinks to round off what has been a lovely day.

Tomorrow Nicola (James's mum), her friend Catherine and Catherine's son Charlie, will walk with us between Porthgain and Pwllderi.

Tight Calves,

James and Dan


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Day 10: Fast boats and (possibly) cured knees

Day 10: Solva to Whitesands

Whilst the overcast and cool weather that we have had so far has probably not been ideal for sitting on the beach, for walking it has been absolutely perfect. Today however the beach weather retuned and the sun shone, meaning that for us, it was a little hot.

Those of you who have been following our blog from the start may recall our encounter on the first day with 91-year old slightly eccentric author Roscoe Howells who delighted in telling us about the huge number of books that he had written. Well today on the shelf in our B&B we found proof to back up his claim in the shape of a copy of one such book 'Roseanna'. Described as 'the final volume of a trilogy spanning almost two centuries of life in rural Pembrokeshire', it looked a real page-turner, and it was just a shame that we had a days walking ahead of us and didn't have time to read it before we left.






We were joined today by Dan's younger brother Ben, who has had a bit of ribbing over the past few days that with the distance we have covered and levels of fitness we have now reached, he could no longer claim to be the fittest brother. He definitely disproved this today however, by setting the pace and leading the way for most of the day!

After a relatively late night last night split between The Harbour Inn and The Ship (pub numbers 15 and 16!), the steep hill that greeted us as we first left Solva was a bit of a struggle. Soon however, the aspirin started to kick in, and we were able to get back into our stride.






We continued for a couple of hours past some very rugged and stunning coastline, and then just past the beach at Caerfai, we came across the chapel of St Non's. Perched high up on the cliff alongside a nunnery, apparently this marks the birth place of the patron saint of Wales, St David.





Alongside the chapel, was a well that is supposed to have magical powers and cure any infirmities or illnesses. We had a brief stop to allow Dan to dip his dodgy knee into the water to test the claim. No conclusive results as yet, so we shall see... Possibly the resumption of a very promising football career beckons (given how rubbish they were this time around, a call up to the England 2016 world cup squad could well be on the cards)!






After stopping for lunch in the small harbour of Porthclais, we soon rounded a headland and were treated with some magnificent views over Ramsey Island - views that we were soon to be able to see at much closer quarters thanks to a free boat trip around the island courtesy of Voyages of Discovery, organised for us by Ieuan Jenkins.


















The trip was great (thoroughly recommended for anyone who has not done it before!), and a very welcome break from walking in the hot sun. We saw porpoises, seals and any number of different sea birds, whilst hearing about much of the history and geology of the island. A big thank you to Ieuan for sorting it, and also for the detailed weather forecasts that he has been regularly texting us over the duration of the walk!

After leaving the boat, the last couple of miles to Whitesands was quite quick and easy. Whitesands is a lovely beach, but it was absolutely heaving with people. We have seen quite a number of other similar sandy beaches along the path, many of which have been pretty much deserted and therefore much more pleasant, and it makes you wonder why people don't head for those instead...






Tomorrow, we head for Porthgain - home territory for Dan. No doubt a few drinks at The Sloop will be on the cards!

Tight calves

Dan and James


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Sunday, July 25, 2010

Day 8: We stayed in a house, a very big house, in the country

Apologies first of all for the delay in posting this - as we mentioned, it is difficult to keep up with blogging every day when there is the evening entertainment to think about! We still haven't quite managed to get the pictures up as you will see...will do that tonight, and also promise to post updates for the last few days too.


The day started well - after yet another cooked breakfast prepared by our landlady Mrs Llewellyn and her friend (whose name we didn't catch), we got talking with them about what we were doing and charities we were supporting. As soon as they heard that it was for a children's hospice, both ladies very kindly donated £10 each to the sponsorship fund, which was really appreciated.

We then set out from Marloes, back down to the coastline, and started off towards Little Haven, where we planned to have lunch. For some reason (maybe because we were still suffering from the tough day yesterday), even though the terrain wasn't particularly difficult, we both found the walking pretty hard. After about 3 hours, we arrived, exhausted into the pretty harbour of Little Haven, but after refuelling with burger and chips each, we then met up with Jill, Gail and Ed, who it was great to see, and whose appearance gave us both a boost (particularly James of course!)

Gail and Jill then set off by car, thankfully carrying our heavy packs, whilst Ed joined us on foot for the next stretch.





Without the packs (and with Ed setting the pace!), things became a little easier, and we made good time and soon met up again with Gail and Jill at Nolton Haven. This meant that we had travelled beyond where we had planned to today, and for the first time we were actually ahead of our planned schedule. We are becoming walking machines!!

The highlight of the day however was yet to come. Gail had very kindly organized a Bed & Breakfast for us to stay back in the village of Dale. Well, we say Bed & Breakfast...probably Country Manor House & Breakfast would be more accurate. As we winded our way up a long drive, we were greeted by the sight of a huge ivy-clad house, complete with classic cars in the garage, and peacocks roaming in the garden. Wow.



Elizabeth, the lady of the house and our landlady for the night, showed us in - and the decor inside didn't disappoint either. It was very grand and full of character, with every space seemingly covered with ornate looking pictures, sculptures and interesting looking trinkets. It was the kind of place that it would have been impossible to design from scratch, but could only be created through years of being lived in by very rich people. Every room seemed to tell a different story...even the toilet was posh, and really gave the impression of 'sitting on the throne!'











We had a quick explore (over the bits that we were allowed to-it would have been nice to have been able to do more!) and then after a quick change, headed out to Dale's only pub 'The Griffin Inn'. After a few beers and some filling but pretty unremarkable food we returned to the manor house and by far the most comfortable beds we stayed in so far (we learnt in the morning that the mattresses had been handmade by a Mr Hooper from Swansea!).

So more than half way now - pub count today a pretty average 2, so a grand total of 14 all together. After years of saying he is drinking too much and encouraging him to stay out of pubs, Dan's mum Sheila is now expressing disappointment at the low number we have been to so far and actively encouraging us to visit more. It's amazing what the thought of raising a few extra pounds for charity does to people!

Tally Ho

Major Dan Craft and Brigadier James O. Wilmott

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Day 9: New Recruits...

Day 9: Nolton Haven to Solva


A relatively easy days walking and some of the most beautiful so far. Real progress north, as regular readers may have gathered, is something we have been yearning for. A mixture of more familiar territory, family and friends slightly closer, and the unspoilt coast line have been carrots at the end of an increasingly friendly stick! As our fitness has rapidly increased, the treck has become easier. This despite much comment from people we have met that that the path north of Solva being more difficult.




We suppose this is relative to ones' fitness, and we are feeling very good at the moment. Something we are both delighted about!



Last night we stayed at a fabulous B&B in Dale (Peacocks and all!), back tracking to our beds from where the walk finished in Nolton Haven. James' fiancé Jill, her parents Gail and Edward, joined us yesterday and today for the walk and it was brilliant to have them with us. It was with pride that we showed them part of the beautiful Welsh coastline, and later Dan's mum, now a regular crutch on this walk, joined us with her friend Michelle.





Our two causes, Ty-Hafan and the Lifeboats provide spur, while friends and loved ones provide the support.



Today lacked the pace of previous days but this was a welcome relief, being the 'day of rest' of course. The sun was shining and the stunning scenery reminded us that while it was sometimes hard, a long time away from the office, from family, loved ones and friends, it remains a completely uplifting experience. We walked to Newgale then on towards Solva. It really was stunning. 'Kamikaze Ed' attempted to forge new paths early on, caught on candid camera by Dan!







The final decent into Solva was a welcome relief in this heat, and Gail, Ed and Jill we hope, enjoyed today's walk as much as we did. The steep inclines proved a challenge at times, but the Kendall Mint Cake Jill kindly provided worked wonders on tired limbs.



We ate with the walking team at The Harbour Inn and were joined by Maggie, Jonathan, Sunil and Ben for drinks and good banter.

It's still very bright here and it was sad to say goodbye to Gail, Ed and Jill who are travelling back to Cardiff, but all in all a great day and tomorrow Dan's brother Ben, recently turned 22, will be joining us for some serious lessons in coastal path walking.

See you at 6am Ben!

Tight Calves!

James and Dan


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Location:Solva, United Kingdom

Day 7: The long way round...

Day 7: Sandy Haven - Marloes

Today was long and difficult, but overall, a very good day.

Despite possibly a few too many beers last night, we had the tents packed away and were ready to leave by 8.45...our earliest start yet. It was just as well too, as there were a couple of bridges that we needed to reach within 2 hours of low tide in order for them to be passable. With the early start however we managed to make both in time and were able to avoid lengthy (and very unwelcome) inland detours that would have otherwise been necessary.


The first 5 1/2 miles from Sandy Haven took us towards Dale, and was a very pleasant walk - not too many hills, and some lovely views. Given this fact, it was surprising how few people we passed during hid stretch and how overgrown some areas were. In fact, the only person that we passed walking the other way provided us both with a bit of a blast from the past - Miss Brownett, our old maths teacher from school. What are the chances?!

Just before Dale, the path took us down from the cliffs into a large estuary area called The Gann, and along a freshwater river in which James spotted a number of rainbow trout in the water below.


Since we started the walk, every morning so far we have begun the day with a fry up. Today however, we decided to be healthy, and instead had porridge and a banana. It seemed a good idea at the time, but meant that by the time we reached Dale at about midday, we were both absolutely starving. We found a seafront cafe run by an elderly lady assisted by her less than enthusiastic grandson, and ordered 2 lunches each - a toasted sandwich and a filled jacket potato. Very nice they were too!


Having filled our stomachs, we were provided with a difficult moral dilemma. The next stretch of the path took us for 6 miles around the Dale Peninsula, whilst in reality given the geography, only moving us an additional 100m further towards our destination. Given the distance that we had to walk today, the temptation to take the shortcut was pretty strong. We resisted however, and with a few longing looks behind us, started up the steep hill towards St. Ann's Head, and the longer, official route.

Our decision was rewarded, when we first had a very amusing encounter with a mobile butcher, and then after a few miles, we reached the headland to find our support crew (this time minus Ben) waiting, and once again ready to take our bags to the evening's destination. Thanks again guys! We also saw a helicopter land on the cliff top just few feet away from us to pick up supplies and ferry then to one of the nearby islands. It seemed to be a bit of an expensive substitute for a boat, but what do we know.



We continued around the peninsula, back into Dale, and then out towards Marloes Sands, a beautiful beach, but one that unfortunately we were unable to take any pictures of because of a lack of batteries in our cameras. We bought solar powered chargers from e-Bay before the walk, but unfortunately these have proved to be pretty useless, and finding charge for various electronic devices is a continual problem.

Our plan was then to spend the night at a youth hostel overlooking the beach. However, when we reached it and found that a night in a dormitory room (without breakfast) was going to cost us £18 we decided instead to pay the extra few pounds and head for the luxury of a B&B.

We booked into the homely Albion House, a mile's walk inland in the village of Marloes, where we were immediately made to feel very welcome by the landlady Mrs Llewellyn. She has even done our washing for us (brave lady!), and our pants and socks are currently hanging out on the washing line in her back garden!

Following food and a few drinks at the local pub The Lobster Pot, we were both feeling the strain of the 15 miles we had covered today, and were in need of an early night.

Tomorrow should be a good day - a relatively easy 10 miles to cover, and James' finance Jill and her parents Gail and Ed are due to be meeting up with us at some point in the afternoon. Looking forward to it.

Tight calves!

Dan and James




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Thursday, July 22, 2010

Day 6: Heading North...

Day 6: Hazel Beach - Sandy Haven

Ha haaa! It feels good! Like a rebirth! We finally left the refineries and power plants and seeing the beautiful untainted Pembs coastline reemerge was great. Really uplifting. That isn't to say that Monkton, Neyland, Milford and Hakin weren't interesting, and of course the industrial plants carry their own merits as large employers in the region. They are bloody ugly though, and the contrast is stark. At one stage we could even see the rain clouds we had left behind on the industrial coastline opposite, while we basked in fantastic sunshine and a slight refreshing breeze.










The above photo, taken with an iPhone app, shows this view. We did still have a few Liquid Natural Gas terminals to negotiate, but putting those to one side and particularly once we had reached South Hook Point, things improved markedly.




























We set off from our B&B, which we wouldn't recommend, at around 9.15, our earliest start yet. We encountered a tough but small incline to get us warmed up and then spent the next hour or so enjoying the views across the peninsular, looking back at the distances we had already travelled. We had walked what was basically a huge horse shoe shape. This meant that while we could see where we had been, we could also see ahead to where we we're going. The future looks great!

As we both have played football all over the county, most of our previous references were sport related; visits to away grounds for either football or cricket always the context. A few non-related memories for James included working with his Dad Nigel at Milford docks painting bridges, and Dan recognised a relic from Porthgain in the shape of The Elkstone, a boat owned by Matt, the owner of The Sloop in Porthgain (one of the sponsors for the walk by the way!).









We saw old stomping grounds such as Hakin's "The Obs" and later the pitch at Herbrandston. Odd seeing them without a sporting kit on of some description.

Our plan for tomorrow is to do 16 miles. It is certainly getting easier as the days pass by. I think we would both agree that over-confidence is creeping in, despite our respective niggling injuries. And if the weather keeps smiling on us as it has done, we will have to deal with higher temperatures than up until to now.

We will camp tonight on a lovely campsite on the hill in Sandy Haven. We have managed to wash some clothes and dry them just about. Small mercies.








We are now sitting in The Taberna Inn in Herbranston having a few well deserved drinks (Steve/Tim - this is pub number 11 by the way!). The last time we were here, it was after football and there was nearly a fight because Nicky Rowlands had stolen all the post-football sausages and wrapped them in a napkin in his pocket for the journey home. Luckily no such problems this time!

Finally a quick thank you to end with - Dan's mum Sheila has been up staying in Dorset with his Great Auntie Claire (GAC for short!) and she has added an extra £10 to the sponsorship fund. Thanks GAC, and see you soon!

James & Dan






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Location:Sandy Haven

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Day 5: Run!

Day 5: Angle - Hazel Beach

The trip from Castlemartin to Angle had been tough but enjoyable. The stay at the Old Point House and the breakfast this morning set us up for what promised to be the least attractive but some of the more gentle walking we would undertake. We would however still have to hit the 16 mile mark to stay on course.






We have read much about this stretch being a bit of an eye sore, however the first couple of miles were great, with the refinery backdrop not being too much of an issue.

The early morning start meant we were met along the way by the early morning feeders. These included swarms of flies, butterflies and, even a snake which caught us both by surprise. We are still not sure what it was but like to imagine it was the poisonous Adder. A close escape for Dan's calves. We should also admit that we fled from that particular field like big girls (apologies).







We headed around past the refinery and up towards Monkton. It wasn't until we had passed from the front to the back of the refinery that we were subjected to the horrific stench of the fumes billowing from the towers. Even where the views improved (which to be honest was only on rare occasions), the choking smell increased the pace of our walk as we raced for the relative sanctuary of Monkton.



As we passed through one farmers field, about 6 horses took an unhealthy interest in us, trotting down the hill to to meet us. We of course both just ran for our lives, reaching a gate where we waited until they had relaxed.

We will try and be nice and not comment on Monkton too much, however the bread baps should be avoided.

We walked through to Pembroke and had a badly thought through drink at a pub near to the castle (pub number 8!).



Rather than cross the busy broads and the Cleddau bridge, we caught the bus through to Neyland where we picked up the walk again (the guide book says the coast path stops for this stretch), heading passed the marina on towards Hazel Beach, where tonight we are staying at the Ferry House Inn.

Basic but clean, the B&B sits right on a jetty and offers some nice views across towards Monkton.

Huw Davies joined us again for a few drinks and dinner which was great. We are both absolutely knackered today so will be turning in early. As you will have noticed, today was a little dull, and we are both looking forward to heading further north tomorrow, where we hope to reach Sandy Haven by evening.

Cheers for now!

James and Dan

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Location:Church Rd,,United Kingdom

Day 4: Hopscotch, sherpas, and too many beers

Day 4: Castlemartin - Angle

Every day so far the weather forecast has said to expect rain, and yet we have not really seen any at all. So we should probably not be surprised that with the forecast last night predicting a sunny day today, we woke up to a torrential downpour.

After yet another fried breakfast (we were both restrained today and stopped at scrambled eggs and bacon, without any sausages), we put on our waterproofs and headed out into the rain. We had to catch a bus down from Pembroke back to Castlemartin, which was our starting point for today, and after a brief failed search for a walking stick for James, we sheltered along with some walkers outside Somerfield in Pembroke until we got picked up by the the grumpiest bus driver in the world. He spent most of hid time shouting at foreigners and old men, so we avoided most of the abuse...although he did tell us off for sitting at the back of the bus laughing at him.

Dan spent the first half of the bus journey struggling to change into waterproofs...which had the desired effect that by the time we were dropped off at our destination of Castlemartin, the rain had stopped completely. After a brief stroll along country lanes, it was a relief to re-join the coast path proper at Freshwater West - a beautiful sandy beach that was made even better by the fact that we were there quite early in the morning and was totally deserted apart from us.





The next 6 miles or so from Freshwater West to Angle provided a welcome return to great cliff top views, but also some of the steepest ups and downs that we have encountered so far. However, whether it was due to the fact that our fitness levels are picking up or the excessive amount of energy pills that we were popping, we didn't struggle as much as we have done in previous days.






After stopping for sandwiches on a bridge at the bottom of a typically steep ravine, we climbed the cliff at the other side to see 'our support team' rounding a corner ahead. And this time it was an extended group - mum/Sheila, Ben and Cindie were joined by Craft family friends Lorna, Sunil and Kavi.








From this point onwards the terrain became less challenging, and we soon arrived at West Angle Beach, before rounding the Angle peninsula, and walking the final 4 miles to our final destination of Angle village. One place of note that we passed during this final stretch was Thorne Island, which looked very similar to Fort Boyard, and according to our guidebook was once the venue for the world hopscotch championships! Random...








Due to the weather, we again decided to ditch the tents and stayed for the night at The Old Point House - a small, cosy pub, which looked very welcoming, and definitely didn't disappoint! Sheila and Ben unfortunately had to leave earlier, but Sunil, Lorna and Kavi stayed and joined us for a drink, and then left to take a number of the heavier items from our bags onto Hazelbeach, which was our final destination for the next day. Given the 16 miles that we had ahead of us, this really was a godsend, and much appreciated - cheers guys!








After some good food, we got chatting to a number of very friendly locals over a few pints (to be honest, a few too many pints, which is why today's blog entry is a day late!), whilst doing our best to shut out the blah blah blah of some pompous officers-to-be from Sandhurst, who were visiting the local army base.

A big thank you to the physiotherapists who declined our request for a massage for our aching limbs, but did put £10 each into the sponsorship pot. Much appreciated!

Another act of huge kindness came the next morning when given that we were raising money for RNLI, pub landlord Rob refused any payment for the room that we had stayed in (or for the hearty breakfast that he had cooked us). A great gesture, and one that once again really was appreciated.

A good day's walking, and a great evening. We could get used to this! Tomorrow unfortunately brings our first encounter with the oil refinery in Pembroke however, so we shall see what that brings...

- Dan and James


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Location:Milford Haven,United Kingdom