After the thrashing we gave our legs yesterday, we were both very grateful that today has been a little more gentle.
After waking from our base at The Govan's Inn in Bosheston (we decided to give the camping a break for a night due to the poor weather), we started with some early morning stretches, and then went down to the dining room for a full English breakfast, with additional toast and cereal. We had both been hoping that one of the side benefits of this walk was that we may lose a few pounds, but the way we have been eating so far, this isn't looking likely. We must be stronger!
We had planned to start by getting a coastal bus from Bosherston down to our starting point for the day, Stackpole Quay. Unfortunately however, the bus that we wanted didn't run until late morning, so instead, we set off by foot, adding an unwelcome 3 miles onto our original schedule.
Any frustration we had with this soon disappeared however, as the detour took us past the Bosheston Lilly ponds, a vast and beautiful expanse of lilly covered water that looked like something out of a Monet painting. The stillness of the water and calmness of the surroundings was something that was in complete contrast to the crashing waves and raging winds of yesterday. It was hard to believe we were in the same area. As we crossed a bridge, James showed his fishing pedigree by attempting to attract the hiding Carp using crumbs of Dorset Cereal bars, but unfortunately experienced limited success!
We soon arrived at Stackpole Quay, and rejoined the coast path proper. Thankfully, the walking was far less arduous than yesterday, and provided us with 2 undoubted highlights in the shape of the beautiful beaches at Barafundle Bay and Broad Haven. Broad Haven in particular was spectacular, and we were treated to great views once we had climbed the steps upto the cliffs on the far side.
Beyond Broad Haven was the first of 2 M.O.D firing ranges we were to encounter today. Luckily there was no firing there today however, and we were able to continue to St Govan's Chapel-a tiny stone chapel which must be pretty much unique in its location, sheltered and built half way down a cliff face. Just by the headland at the chapel, there was also a seal bobbing in the bay...the first, but hopefully not the last that we see on the walk.
Unfortunately, we weren't so lucky with the 2nd of the firing ranges, as a big red flag (and the sound of exploding mortars and machine guns in the distance) signalled that the military were playing war games, and we were forced to cut inland (not before we had liberated two villages from the tight grip of enemy hands and made safe 4 cattle grids and a small sty). To be honest, this is where the day went down hill, as the rest of the walk was along country lanes, and long boring busy A-roads. The only exciting moment was finding 2 tanks outside an army base that we could photograph each other next to, whilst striking suitable macho soldier poses.
Having reached Castlemartin, we decide to head inland and find a place to stay to recharge the batteries and wash some clothes. We found a cheap b&b on the main drag in Pembroke and then headed out into the town to find some food and drink. While not wanting to sounds too judgemental given that everyone we have spoken to has been very nice, Pembroke has not quite won our hearts as yet. Context is everything of course, however the rain, wind and tired legs means we will leave Pembroke without heavy hearts. The constant reminder of war games echoing in the distance does nothing for the soul and we will hopefully see more beautiful and memorable stops ahead.
We did however meet a gentleman in the Old Oak pub who still worked on a steam train. His depth of knowledge and willingness to share it meant we were left floundering in his slip stream, but a lovely guy nonetheless and full of interesting (if lengthy) anecdotes.
Tonight we recuperate. Tomorrow morning we will return to Castlemartin via the coastal bus, and according to the guidebook, the stretch to Angle is a beautiful yet strenuous section, and hopefully James' knee and Dan's knee/hip will both behave. Following that, the next 2 days will be some of the most relatively uninspiring, but a necessary evil between Angle and Neyland; and Neyland onto Sandy Haven. Perhaps our preconceptions, based on what we have read, will be contradicted, but we are not holding our breath.
Anyway, here's to a great start to the walk and we hope you are all enjoying reading the blog. Please feel free to comment on what we write and make sure that if you haven't yet sponsored our endeavour, you do so very soon. It's hard work you know :-)
Finally, a quick pub update for Steve W. - 1 yesterday and 3 today, means that we are now upto 7!
Goodnight all,
Dan and James
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Location:Main St,Pembroke,United Kingdom
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